Guide
What Is My Hair Type?
The full 1A–4C system explained, how to identify where you fall, and why porosity matters as much as curl pattern for choosing the right products.
The 1A–4C hair type chart
The Andre Walker system classifies hair by curl pattern across four main types and three sub-types:
Type 1 (Straight)
1A: Pin-straight, very fine. 1B: Straight with some body. 1C: Straight but coarser with slight wave. All Type 1 tends to be oilier—natural oils travel down the shaft more easily without a curl to interrupt them.
Type 2 (Wavy)
2A: Loose S-wave, fine to medium texture. 2B: More defined S-wave, prone to frizz. 2C: Thick waves with some curl definition, most prone to frizz in the Type 2 group.
Type 3 (Curly)
3A: Large, loose spirals. 3B: Medium-sized springy curls. 3C: Tight corkscrew curls. Type 3 needs more moisture than Types 1–2 and benefits from leave-in conditioners and curl creams.
Type 4 (Coily/Kinky)
4A: Soft, densely packed coils. 4B: Z-shaped tight coil, less defined. 4C: Very tight, fragile coils with significant shrinkage (40–75% of real length). Type 4 is the most fragile and moisture-dependent type.
Why porosity matters as much as type
Most hair type guides stop at curl pattern. Porosity determines how you should apply products, in what order, and with what frequency—far more than type alone. High porosity + Type 3B needs heavy sealant products (oils, butters) to lock moisture in. Low porosity + Type 4A needs heat to open cuticles during conditioning and lighter products that don't just sit on the surface.
The porosity test: drop a clean, dry strand into a glass of water. If it sinks quickly = high porosity. If it floats on top = low porosity. If it sinks slowly = medium porosity.
Frequently asked
How do I know my hair type?
Hair type is determined by two things: curl pattern (the shape of the curl/wave from root to tip) and individual strand diameter (fine, medium, coarse). Curl pattern ranges from Type 1 (straight) through Type 2 (wavy), Type 3 (curly), to Type 4 (coily/kinky). Each type has sub-categories A, B, and C going from looser to tighter within that type.
What is the difference between 3A and 3B hair?
3A hair forms large, loose spirals about the circumference of a large marker or finger. 3B hair forms tighter springy curls roughly the circumference of a marker or large crayon. 3C is tightly packed corkscrew curls, pencil-circumference or smaller. All three are 'curly' but require different moisture levels and styling approaches.
What is high porosity hair?
Porosity describes how well the hair shaft absorbs and retains moisture. High porosity hair has raised or damaged cuticles that absorb water quickly but lose it quickly—resulting in frizz and dryness. Low porosity hair has tightly closed cuticles that resist moisture absorption but retain it well once absorbed.
Does hair type change?
Curl pattern can change with hormonal shifts (puberty, pregnancy, menopause), significant weight change, medication, or physical damage. Heat-damaged hair loses curl pattern temporarily or permanently. The overall type category (1–4) rarely changes dramatically in adulthood without external cause.
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